Indian face climb. 7 north face, a must-do for the grade.
Indian face climb First put up by Johnny Dawes in the 1980s, it’s still recognized as a test-piece to any modern climber. It sits just west of the Continental Divide in the Indian Peaks near Pawnee Pass and is host to a classic Stettner route, the 5. / hotaches Thanks for watching, Climb On! LOVE FROM Paul Diffley Hot Aches Productions Scotland Indian Face is still considered one of the world's most intimidating traditional climbs, and even decades after its first ascent, it is rarely repeated. [10] Dawes made the first free ascent of Indian Face and pioneered slab climbing on bolted sport climbing slate routes. A thousand years ago, the Adena gouged foot and hand holds in what looks to be a huge rounded boulder face. Dec 31, 2000 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. It put a damper on operation upward movement for a brief time but it may have saved something worse happening at a later date. It stands proudly at 11,900’. 6. This tenuous climb, high on the sides of Snowdon was the UK’s first E9. Jul 10, 2013 · Seb Grieve went on the Indian Face soon after and was good enough to send me back the few skyhooks and poor runners from the climb, his note read "none of it would of held btw", I’ve still got the note. It was first climbed in 1924 by members of the Siera Club. "A pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension," said Paul Williams in his 1989 guidebook. The Indian Face was the UK's first E9. Mar 4, 2019 · Angus Kille is truly an understated climber. We talked about his first ascent of Indian Face (the first-ever E9) when it was likely the most dangerous route in the world, climbing 5. Aug 11, 2005 · Lone Eagle Peak, though a mere 11,900 feet high, is one of the most remote and beautiful granite peaks in Colorado. Aug 28, 2020 · Britain's first E9 trad climb, The Indian Face first ascended by Johnny Dawes in 1986 at Cloggy in Wales and only repeated a handful of times in over thirty years. Its South Face makes for a great adventure for the novice climber or a fun, easy outing for those on a rest day at Indian Creek. Although challenging, the Indian Staircase trail is in a beautiful, scenic area. Watch a short film featuring Johnny Dawes, the first ascentionist, and other notable climbers who repeated the route. The route is a very bold and technical slab climb with minimal protection but relatively (for an E9) easy climbing. We are going in chronological order, working through all the seven climbers and their ascents of this remarkable and iconic climb. watch all out feature films for just a few dollars and access extra exclusive content. Sep 5, 2013 · In this article Neil Gresham gives us the background to his ascent of Indian Face, a climb that almost ended in disaster. Sep 3, 2013 · Indian Face's reputation as dangerous – life-threatening even – could unjustifiably prejudice those who climb it as reckless, fearless, taking risks with their own neck. crack city. Apr 1, 2024 · Crack climbing is a unique form of rock climbing that involves ascents along cracks in the rock face. It has gained almost mythical status in British climbing, partly due to the first ascensionist Johnny Dawes being one of the UK's true Oct 13, 2023 · Photo: John Evans Located between Indian Creek and Canyonlands National Park, the South Six Shooter provides moderate desert tower climbing on an iconic formation. Jun 30, 2010 · Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has repeated The Indian Face (E9 6c) on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, North Wales. The Indian Face was the first route graded E9 in the UK (therefore the world) and was climbed by legend Johnny Dawes Aug 17, 2023 · Morus Sanderson has made the ninth ascent of Johnny Dawes' Indian Face, E9 6c, at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, Wales. Angus Kille takes on Indian Face. Apr 3, 2023 · Johnny Dawes is a legendary British rock climber known for his exceptional footwork and unique dynamic style. Be wary of bringing your pet up the staircase if they aren't used to climbing. A sinuous line, it takes longer to climb than its height would suggest while the style of climbing, all footswappy and angle specific makes it more involved too. Or at least I would be very surprised if he has. org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineeringGordon Edwards lists the following routes in "A Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park" -West Face Route: Edwards describes this as the standard route. 1 day ago · The Indian Staircase Trail is an unofficial and challenging scramble up a steep, rocky face. Jul 6, 2006 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You might also see some volcano eruptions in the distance! This guide covers costs, essential tips, and everything you need to know for an unforgettable adventure. Lone Eagle’s pointy summit is commanding and intimidating to the average hiker. Mostly face and slab climbing on good gray rock. Jun 14, 2020 · The Indian Face might not be the UK’s hardest rock climb, but it’s probably its most infamous. The Indian Face was first climbed by Johnny Dawes back in 1986 and before Dave's ascent had seen two repeats by Neil Gresham and Nick Dixon. Unlike face climbing, which relies on holds and features on the rock surface, crack climbing requires jamming hands, fingers, and feet into the crack to progress upward. K. , and hosts a wide array of classic climbs like the famous Supercrack, and towers like North and South Six Shooters. It is the perfect cragging destination in the U. It is eight miles and about 6100 vertical feet from Goat Haunt. Jul 16, 2013 · Last week, The Indian Face, E9 6c, got three more repeats first from James McHaffie (Caff) and then it saw two repeats in the same day from Calum Muskett and George Ullrich, making the 6th and Apr 3, 2020 · Johnny Dawes and the story of Indian Face (E9 6C). There are 10-11 pitches (depending on how you count), each with their own interesting flavor. Jun 1, 2020 · Britain’s first E9 trad climb was The Indian Face, a bold route first climbed by Johnny Dawes in 1986 at Cloggy in Wales. It has gained almost mythical status in British climbing, partly due to the first ascensionist Johnny Dawes being one of the UK's true Jun 3, 2020 · The Indian Face might not be the UK’s hardest rock climb, but it’s probably its most infamous. Only two of the eight miles are by human trail. Mar 22, 2019 · Watch Dave MacLeod climbing the worlds most notorious E9 called Indian Face back in 2010 in this new-for-2019 web clip from Hot Aches Production. Johnny Dawes and the Story of Indian Face: the UK's First E9 Climb Check out The Editors's author page. On Tuesday James McHaffie successfully climbed The Indian Face, the route which more than any else has come to represent the epitome of British trad climbing, where the combination of objective dangers and technical climbing render this a test for the elect few. Oct 1, 2021 · Learn about the history and difficulty of The Indian Face, a terrifying slab on Cloggy in Snowdon, which was the UK's first E9 climb. This short 30-40 minute uphill climb is an absolute must-do during your time at Lake Atitlan. With hardly any protection, falling off from the upper sections is thought to be fatal. 7 north face, a must-do for the grade. Indian Face is an E9 Trad climb at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu in the United Kingdom. Oct 26, 2019 · North Face Ascent The North Face Route is a super cool mix of scrambling, gully climbing, and alpine rock. West Indian Face is an E8 Trad climb at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu in the United Kingdom. UKC NEWS - Joseph Smith Ground-Up Solos The Indian Face - E9 6c - Clogwyn D'ur 'Arddu, North Wales In what is clearly the boldest climbing feat ever seen on British soil, forty one year old 'Joseph Smith' (not his real name) has grabbed perhaps the most coveted trad lead in the World - an ascent of The Indian Face, ground up. First ascended back in 1986 by Johnny Dawes (and discussed at A conversation with Morus Sanderson - one of a new crop of bold young trad climbers from the UK. Actually, it's a smooth granite cliff, somewhat out of place here in this land of sandstone, but it looks like a giant boulder somehow welded to the edge of a cliff. Mar 27, 2024 · Like to stay warm on cold winter days in Joshua Tree? Check out my go-to sunny beginner rock climbing crags only a short walk from the car! Aug 17, 2023 · 2 ebdon 18 Aug 2023 In reply to ro8x: I think what's really mind boggling about this is that Indian face is a climb that many top climbers have had a hard time on, I think Dave MacLeod walked away when he first tried it, Gresham had a pretty harrowing time, I don't even think Nick Dixons ascent whent smoothly. It maintains its reputation as a terrifying lead to this day. Smith is a committed and self taught free climber and made his Mar 11, 2022 · No matter your ability level, there are plenty of reasons to climb a 5. 8 miles out into the Indian Peaks Overview Indian Creek is the undisputed home of crack climbing, A. Extreme dieting and training regimes are common tactics, jobs have been quitted and relationships The Indian Face was the first route graded E9 in the UK (therefore the world) and was climbed by legend Johnny Dawes back in 1986. Indian Face is a 45-metre (148 ft) traditional climbing route on the rhyolite "Great Wall" of the East Buttress of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, in Wales. Sep 2, 2013 · In this UKC Exclusive, legendary climber Johnny Dawes gives us his unique take on Indian Face, how he did it, how it fits with modern climbs, and loads of other stuff we didn't fully understand. With his recent ascent of the notorious Indian Face we pinned him down for a chat to find out the process behind climbing this terrimore Angus Kille is truly an understated climber. To all British climbers the title is worth more than a thousand words. Indian Face is a legendary route of the 1980s, with no on-sight ascents and very little protection. He has been climbing at a high level in both sport and trad climbing but has remained relatively under the radar. Sep 2, 2013 · I gave Indian Face E9, the only one then but for an on sight ascent. / hotaches Thanks for watching, Climb On! LOVE FROM Paul Diffley Hot Aches Productions Scotland Indian Staircase is one of the more magical places in the Gorge. With hardly any This short film retraces the history of this true milestone of British trad climbing and features Joe Brown, Nick Dixon and John Redhead as well as the absolute genius who climbed it first: Johnny Dawes. Many Jul 7, 2025 · Experience the most breathtaking sunrise views over Lake Atitlan from the Rostro Maya Hike (Indian Nose). It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre The Indian Face might not be the UK's hardest rock climb, but it's probably its most infamous. [6] His influence on British climbing was at its peak in the mid to late-1980s. In this chat we cover bold trad, the culture of North Wales a Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon, two of the three people who have so far managed to climb the Indian Face on Cloggy, have a pint and discuss the route and its status… Indian Face is an E9 Trad climb at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu in the United Kingdom. Angus Kille is truly an understated climber. A. 13b (8a) slabs without using his hands, tips for mastering footwork, his writing practice and current book project, and life lessons involving English climber Johnny Dawes was notable for his 'smearing' technique and his ability to climb extreme slab-routes without using his hands. Many of the tales imbedded within climbing folk-law serve to paint a picture that there is a fine line between being a focussed top-level performer and an obsessive lunatic. These routes keep the adventure high and the difficulty manageable. But the amount of practice, research and exploration each ascensionist has afforded the route, or just their years of rock climbing experience, giving them a deep understanding of their own ability, contradicts this Aug 18, 2023 · West Indian Face is an E8 Trad climb at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu in the United Kingdom. Discuss Indian FaceNo threads. In August 2013 when three climbers in four days left their marks, it was wonderful to see Indian Face chalked up. Jun 1, 2020 · Rarely has anyone moved on rock like the Dawes and the number of ascents The Indian Face has had since 1986 is a testament to this. This tenuous climb, high on the sides of Snowdon was the UK's first E9. This included the first ascent of Indian Face, the first-ever route at the E9 -grade. It follows the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such difficulty that it is almost beyond human comprehension. Jul 12, 2013 · British Trad Climbing, James McHaffie Repeats Indian Face - EpicTV Climbing Daily EpicTV 406K subscribers Subscribed Mount Cleveland : SummitPost. [6] The ascent was an historic moment in the transition from traditional climbing as the dominant form of extreme rock climbing (in Britain, and elsewhere), to the safer form of sport climbing, which became the focus for the leading climbers. As far as I know Jerry Moffat has not climbed Indian Face. Climbing Cracks may seem like another sport to some, it is so different from the face climbing, but once you handle this skill, you start to feel Jun 1, 2023 · Climbing The Indian Face In The Wet! - Morus Sanderson - YouTube Dec 23, 2005 · In reply to Eddie Stephenson: Dawes has climbed Indian Face twice (once before flake loss and once after), but he has climbed the crux three times on the lead as "West Indian Face" follows Indian Face until it splits after the crux. It's how could you not. Start by taking the Bison Way Trail For the next two weeks look out for the daily update on the Indian Face, starting tomorrow with an exclusive article from Johnny Dawes himself: 'Facing The Indian'. Johnny Dawes (born 9 May 1964) is a British rock climber and author, known for his dynamic climbing style and bold traditional climbing routes. Inexperienced hikers or young children should not attempt it, and is not officially maintained by the park. It has only been repeated a seven times in the past 34 years. But the amount of practice, research and exploration each ascensionist has afforded the route, or just their years of rock climbing experience, giving them a deep understanding of their own ability, contradicts this Overview Lone Eagle Peak has forever been imprinted in my mind as one of the most awe inspiring Peaks in Colorado. Nov 26, 2018 · When a death route becomes an obsession, the question isn't how could you climb it. The Lone Eagle Cirque can be approached from the east over Pawnee Pass or from the west starting at the Monarch Climbing route, Wales. Indian Creek’s Biggest Route Developer Just Got Banned for Camping for Too Long Sam MacIlwaine The Indian Face was first climbed by Johnny Dawes back in 1986 and before Dave's ascent had seen two repeats by Neil Gresham and Nick Dixon. S. To the enthusiastic adventure climber, it’s a veritable playground encapsulated in stone and surrounded by pristine, rugged beauty. Mar 25, 2002 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Angus Kille has made the 8th ascent of Indian Face on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. Anyway, anyone with basic body balance and rock climbing Sep 14, 2021 · The Indian’s Face is a new sub-sector, located over Upper – Noufaro, 28 routes between 5c to 7a, equipped by the Uk opener Gary Gibson. With his recent ascent of the notorious Indian Face we pinned him down for a chat to find out the process behind climbing this terrifying route.